Sizes
Sizes: 3 months, (6 months, 12 months, 18 months, 24 months) Finished chest measurement: 19.5 (20.5, 21.5, 22.5, 23.5) inches, buttoned. Sweater is designed to be worn with about 2-3 inches of positive ease.
Yarn
Aran or Bulky weight yarn such as Cascade Yarns Eco Wool (pictured) or Quince & Co. Osprey
Yardage
200-300 yards
Needles
US 8 24 inch circular needle, or size needed to obtain gauge
US 8 DPNs for sleeve
Notions
Markers
Stitch holders or scrap yarn
Cable needle
Tapestry Needle
1 inch button OR toggle
Gauge
16 stitches and 20 rows in 4 inches in Double Seed Stitch (also called Moss Stitch)
Notes
The first time I knit this sweater I was an expectant Mama, keeping my hands busy while trying to still my mind. It was in a wee size - just a little 3 month sweater that my baby boy grew out of in a minute. Wanting to try my hand at writing knitting patterns, I knit it again, this time grading it and publishing it on my blog as a free pattern. I had no idea the response that this little piece would get. I have truly enjoyed watching more and more of these sweaters pop up on Ravelry. (I even spotted one in someone's Instagram feed!) It seems that many agree - this is a sweet and quick knit for your little ones.
As of March 2015, this pattern has received a facelift! I've tweaked the sizes just a bit (there is less ease in the body now and more in the sleeve), and made the instructions clearer and more consistent with my other patterns. AND, it is still a free pattern! Consider it my gift to all you Mamas-to-be out there.
This is a great first sweater for those of you looking to move on from hats and scarves. It will give you an idea of how a seamless bottom-up sweater is constructed, while also giving you the satisfaction of a quick knit. The cables are nestled on a lovely textured background, two of my favorite stitches of Aran cabled sweaters. The piece is knit from the bottom up, joined at the underarms and the raglan yoke is worked seamlessly. The only finishing required is grafting the underarm stitches, sewing on a button and weaving in the ends.
Techniques
K2tog
SSK
Grafting/Kitchener Stitch
Long-Tail Cast On
Cables
Buttonhole
Abbreviations
beg – beginning
Cont- continue
dec – decrease
Dss- double seed stitch
k- knit
k2tog- knit 2 together
p- purl
patt- pattern
pm- place marker
rem- remain
rep – repeat
rnd – round
RS- right side
sm- slip marker
ssk- slip, slip, knit
st(s) – stitch(es)
St st- stockinette stitch
WS- wrong side
Stitch Guide
Double seed stitch (multiples of 2 sts):
Row 1 (RS): *K1, p1,* rep between ** to end.
Row 2 (WS): *P1, k1,* rep between ** to end.
Row 3: * P1, k1,* rep between ** to end.
Row 4: *K1, P1,* rep between ** to end.
Honeycomb Cable (8 sts):
Row 1-2: Work in St st.
Row 3 (RS): Place next 2 sts on cable needle, hold to front, knit next 2 sts, knit 2 sts from cable needle. Place next 2 sts on cable needle and hold to back. Knit next 2 sts, then knit 2 sts from cable needle.
Rows 4-6: Work in St st.
Row 7 (RS): Place 2 sts on cable needle and hold to back. Knit next 2 sts, then knit 2 sts from cable needle. Place 2 sts on cable needle, hold to front, knit next 2 sts, knit 2 sts from cable needle.
Row 8: Work in St st.
Stockinette stitch:
Row 1 (RS): knit
Row 2 (WS): purl
BODY
With longer circular needles, and the long-tail method, cast on 90 (94, 98, 102, 106) sts. Do not join.
Setup row (WS): work in dss for 10 stitches, pm, p8 (cable stitches), pm, dss 23 (25, 27, 29, 31), pm, p8 (cable stitches), pm, dss 23 (25, 27, 29, 31), pm, p8 (cable stitches), pm, dss 10 stitches
Rows 1-8: *Work in dss to marker, sm, work cable, sm *; repeat between ** two more times, work in dss to end of row.
Cont in patt until body measures 5 (6, 6.5, 7, 7.5) inches (or desired length to undearm) from cast-on edge, ending with a wrong side row.
Next row: *Slip 23 (24, 24, 25, 26) sts, slip next 4 (4, 5, 5,6) underarm sts to separate holder, slip 36 (38, 40, 42, 42), slip next 4 (4, 5, 5,6) underarm sts to separate holder, slip remaining sts. 82 (86, 88, 92, 94) sts rem.
SLEEVES (make 2 alike)
With DPNs, and the long-tail method, cast on 30 (32, 34,36, 38) sts. Join to work in the round being careful not to twist. Pm to indicate beg of rnd.
Work in dss for 10 rnds.
Change to St st and work until sleeve measures 2 (2.25, 2.5, 2.75, 3) inches from cast-on edge, working to last 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) sts before marker. Place next 4 (4, 5, 5,6) underarm sts on separate holder. 26 (28, 29, 31, 32) sts total.
Make second sleeve in the same manner.
YOKE
Note: Continue to work honeycomb cable until too few sts rem.
Return to the needle holding the body sts and continue as follows:
Set-up Row (WS): Work 23 (24, 24, 25, 26) front sts in dss, pm, k 26 (28, 29, 31, 32) sleeve sts, pm, work 36 (38, 40, 42, 42) back sts in dss, pm, k 26 (28, 29, 31, 32) sleeve sts, work 23 (24, 24, 25, 26) front sts in dss. 134 (142, 146, 154, 158) sts total.
Dec row (RS): *Work to marker, k2tog sm, ssk, knit to 2 sts before next marker*; repeat between ** three more times. 8 sts dec
Rep Dec Rnd every RS row 7 (7, 6, 7, 6) more times, and every 4th row 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) times. 54 (62, 66, 66, 70) sts total.
AT THE SAME TIME work buttonhole as follows: When you have worked 8 (8, 8, 9, 9) dec rows, on the next WS row, work until 6 sts rem. Cast off 3 sts. Knit to end. On next row k3, cast on 3 sts, and continue in patt to the end of the row.
Cast off loosely or using a stretchy method.
Finishing
Graft underarms together using Kitchener stitch.
Weave in ends and block to measurements. Sew on button.